Today we’ve got the ultimate guide on our loose lay vinyl plank flooring installation. Because it’s waterproof, durable and can be easily removed and reinstalled if you ever have a flood, loose lay luxury vinyl plank is a no-brainer for a basement. And, let’s face it, most basements will experience water damage at some point (you can read about how we recovered from our first leak here). 

Why a Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation?

You may already know that we weren’t so lucky after our second leak, having to replace beautiful engineered hardwood with our luxury vinyl flooring installation last year.

We were able to salvage some baseboards that didn’t warp and thankfully all our furniture too. Tip: Hubs put everything onto dollies so we can easily roll stuff around from from room to room in anticipation of replacing the floor.

We’re still loving our True North Luxury Vinyl (this isn’t a sponsored post so we can be completely honest about that!). So now it’s time to dive into the details and tell you everything you ever wanted to know about installing loose lay vinyl planks!

As we mentioned last time, the secret sauce – or rather the innovation – in our loose lay vinyl plank plank flooring installation, is not the flooring itself. It’s the tab that you can get with it. With no click, or even glue to fuss with, anyone can install this loose lay floor system – whether you have DIY experience or not! Here’s a reminder of what True North LV Max Tab is all about:

What is True North LVMax Tab?

True North LVMax Tab is a peel and stick tab system that connects loose lay vinyl planks so you don’t need glue around the perimeter of the room to keep the floor in place. The best part for us is that it’s eco-friendly. There’s absolutely no odour, and more importantly, no volatile organic compounds (VOCs). That means no migraines for me during this install!

The tabs come in a roll with pre-perforated tabs which I pre-tear first. Pop them into a box to grab n’ go. We’ll give you a recap on how to install the tabs after giving you tips on how to cut and lay vinyl plank first.

Be sure to watch this video to see how easy it is to lay loose lay luxury vinyl planks.

What Materials do I need to Lay Loose Lay Vinyl Floor?

* [If you’re looking for some of the things we used, we’ve got you covered (disclosure): Clicking on the affiliate links below means we may receive a commission. But don’t worry, you don’t pay a cent more and it helps us make more unique crafts to share with you! Thanks for helping to support our blog!]

• True North Luxury Vinyl Loose Lay Planks
• True North LV Max Tab
• Swiffer sweeper and refills
• Jigsaw
• Painter’s tape
• Vacuum
• Self levelling floor compound (only if floors are not level)
• Laser level (to establish centre line)
• Chalk line or pencil
• Plywood and metal edge (if building jig)
• 12″ speed square
• Utility knife and extra blades

How to Calculate How Many Tabs you’ll Need

Calculate 4 tabs per plank. This is where a project plan comes in handy. Using our square footage flooring calculation, we needed 4 rolls of tabs (250 tabs per roll) for our loose lay vinyl plank flooring installation.

Before Installing Loose Lay Vinyl Plank

Before installing the vinyl planks, acclimate the flooring for at least 48 hours before starting.

Which Way Should Vinyl Plank Flooring Run?

Determine what direction you want the floor to run (typically the length of the room). However, layout is a matter of preference. We ran our entire basement floor from the front to the back of the house.

Move everything out of the room where you’re beginning to lay the vinyl planks. The far wall below is our starting point.

Use a laser level to chalk a line on the floor in the middle of the room. Notice the green tape on the wall?

Before removing the engineered hardwood after our second flood, Hubs took the time to transfer our original laser line onto the wall using the old flooring as a guide. That way, we could quickly re-set it again for this installation.

A chalk line is fine, but we find it easily erases, so instead we transfer the laser line onto green tape as our guide.

Calculate the width of your starter Row

It’s important to do some pre-planning to avoid narrow plank widths near walls and doors. This requires some calculating, so have your room layout with measurements handy (like the one we showed earlier).

Modify the flooring layout so that no piece against a wall is smaller than half the width of a plank. Using the width of the room, determine how many full planks will fit into the area and how much space remains that will need to be covered by partial planks. Divide the remaining space by two to calculate the width of the partial planks. Where possible, plan for at least half of the vinyl plank to run along the perimeter of the room.

Take into consideration adjacent rooms too. So do this calculation in every room if you are doing an entire basement like us. Then change the width of your starter row accordingly to get the best layout for your own situation.

There are some areas where you’ll be able to compromise with the width of the plank against the wall. For instance, we have wall-to-wall laundry at the opposite end of where we’re starting, so have leeway there. Since you’ll never see the floor under the cabinets and laundry machines, you can ‘cheat’ and have less than half a plank.

Materials for Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation

* [If you’re looking for some of the things we used, we’ve got you covered (disclosure): Clicking on the affiliate links below means we may receive a commission. But don’t worry, you don’t pay a cent more and it helps us make more unique crafts to share with you! Thanks for helping to support our blog!]

• True North Luxury Vinyl Loose Lay Planks
• True North LV Max Tab
• Swiffer sweeper and refills
• Shepherd moving blanket (handy for moving furniture on the finished floors)
• Plywood, strip of metal and screws (if building jig)
• 12″ speed square
• Utility knife and extra blades
• Grozing plier
• Jigsaw
• Electric drill
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Rectangular metal tube for cutting lengths

Having lots of fresh blades will make cutting  so much easier.

How to Install Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring

We thoroughly explain how to install the loose lay flooring on the video, but the following steps will also help elaborate.

Step 1. Prep the Subfloor

Proper prep is one of the most important steps to a successful loose lay vinyl plank flooring installation. The subfloor, in our case concrete, must be smooth and free of dust etc.

A level can help you determine if there are any gaps. If necessary, use  a levelling compound to fill in areas that aren’t level. Because our floor was so bad to start, we had it professionally levelled when we did our first floor (read obout how to level a basement with Levelrock here).

If you have to remove old adhesive from a previous floor, know that chemicals can damage the backing of loose lay planks if not properly removed after cleaning the subfloor.

Before starting to lay the loose lay vinyl planks, Hubs fills in fine cracks in our floor (as you see on the video). That’s an optional step.

What isn’t optional is making sure that the floor is as dust free as can be. With drywall dust and dust from the crack filler, a vacuum will not get it all. So we sweep the floor with a Swiffer – before and during the installation – to pick up all the dust we can!

Now you’re ready to open some boxes and start laying your luxury vinyl floor!

Step 2. Cut Starter Row

Where to Start Laying the Vinyl Plank

There are different schools of thought on where to start the floor (in the middle of the room on the chalkline vs. at the wall. Walls are never parallel, so the former method may be better. However, we choose to start in one corner of the room and work our way out toward the other wall because we know our walls are fairly parallel from our previous installation.

As already mentioned, when you lay out each room, you want to ensure that you have no less than half the width or your vinyl plank against the walls. So, for example if your plank width is 9″ like ours, that’s 4.5″ width of flooring material. Our starter strip turned out to be 6″ wide (removing 3″).

To cut the planks along the length for the first row, we used the long aluminum rectangular tube as our straight edge you see below. Score on your mark, then bend along the score. Your plank will snap along the score. If the cut didn’t quite go through to the backing, use your blade to finish the cut through the vinyl plank backing to separate it.

Slide the first vinyl floor board into place. Leave a minimum 3/16″ gap against the all walls (which the baseboards will cover) to allow for expansion and contraction. Spacers can help with this step.

Dry lay all the pieces in the first row, then refer to Step 4 to connect them with True North LV Max Tab.

Step 3: Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation – Width Cuts

We cut the first vinyl plank in each row in such as way that it leaves at a 6″ – 10″ stagger between the ends of each board. You’ll see that clearly in Step 5.

To cut each plank to length at the beginning and end of each row, Hubs created this custom cutting jig.

He screwed down a piece of metal bar onto a plywood backing. The metal bar is set exactly to the width of the vinyl board (in our case 9″). In combination with the square and utility knife, it allows you to make all your cuts at the beginning and end of a row.

You just measure and mark where you want to cut the length. Then place the plank on the jig. Line up the square on your mark and score the plank several times. Just as we did with the longer cuts, snap the vinyl along the score by bending it. You may also need to use the utility knife to cut through the back of the vinyl plank to release the cut.

Step 4 – Connect Loose Lay Planks with Tabs

There are more details about ways to install the tabs in Step 8. But connecting the loose lay floor together is as easy as peeling a bandaid! Once the first row is cut and in place, apply tabs to the ends to lock the first row end-to-end. Then add tabs along the length of each plank (3 per plank, spaced 12″ apart) so you’re ready to install the next row.

Peel off the liner, then tightly place the second rows of planks. With the exception of one instance we show on the video, always leave the ends for last. After laying the entire row, lift the ends and tab them too.

Because there’s no glue to hold the perimeter, we put boxes of flooring on top of the starter row. The weight holds it in place until we reach our chalk line.

As work progresses, roll the seams. You can walk on the floor right away (and Swiffer your freshly laid floors too).

Step 5: Stagger Flooring

Here’s how randomly staggered vinyl planks, with end joints not less than 6″ from the previous end joint, should look.

Taking the time to measure the cut on the first plank, so that your boards end up staggered like this, results in a professional looking job! It also ensures that your vinyl floor look realistic – like a real wood floor!

Tip: keep all your cutoffs and use them to start new rows. Using all your scraps can speed things along and will ensure minimal waste. We put a piece of painter’s tape on the cut end so we can quickly tell which end goes against the wall!

We also placed green tape at the joints as a visual reference so you can clearly see the staggers after the floor comes together.

Step 6: Cutting Around Walls and Other Objects

When you get to a place you have to cut around, like the doorway below, measure and mark carefully. Further ahead we show you now to handle measuring for trickier cuts.

As you see on the video, you have the flexibility to shift the vinyl planks down so that the last one extends past the wall. That way, you can continue the pattern into the next room.

In instances like this, we use a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the wall drawn on the vinyl plank. To keep vinyl dust from taking to the air, we make our jig saw cuts in the garage.

Tip: while our loose lay vinyl plank flooring installation was in progress, we used the skid it was delivered on as a platform to cut and drill!

Once you’re further along with your flooring install, it’s a good idea to flatten the cardboard packaging from the loose lay flooring and put it over your just-laid planks to protect it. You only need it where you’re cutting. Anywhere else isn’t necessary because it becomes a slip hazard. But also use a scrap piece of wood – or build yourself a jig like Hubs did – to cut on.

How to Cut Flooring Around Objects

In the previous section, cutting around the doorway was pretty straightforward. But what if you have something more challenging, like round pipes? We have two tricks for dealing with those!

Templating a Toilet Pipe

One challenge is the toilet pipe. So our first method is to use a gadget with pins, called a contour gauge, that can take the shape of the pipe. A contour gauge transfers the shape of an object as accurately as possible so is something worth having in your tool arsenal!

We make a paper template (using the paper between the planks in the packaging). That allows us to test the fit before transferring the shape to the vinyl.

In our case, the toilet pipe fell in between two planks, so we cut a half circle along where the boards meet at the edge. As you see below, we’re using a utility knife to make the cuts but you can just as easily use a jigsaw.

Be sure to leave at least a 1/8″ – 3/16″ expansion gap around the pipe.

As you can see, the contour gauge gives you a perfect fit!

Although we’ll hardly ever see this hidden space, it’s still satisfying to see a seamless look around the pipe in the middle of our loose lay vinyl plank flooring installation!

templating a Drain

In the second instance, again we’re using the very paper that came in between the planks to make a template for a floor drain in the laundry room.

Just place the paper over the plank, then lay it in front of the pipe. Measure the distance from the end of the plank to the bottom of the pipe and also the distance from the top of the plank to the top of the pipe. Do the same for the width. Then transfer those measurements to the paper template and connect the marks to form a circle. You can then cut the hole into the paper and fit it onto the pipe before you make any cuts to ensure a proper fit. Adjust as necessary. 

In this case, we drill starter holes first and jig saw to cut the hole in the middle of the plank (as shown on the video).

Again, leave a little room (at least 1/8″ when you’re fitting around pipes) and it will look as great as this. The only thing left to do is to cut the drain flush with the top of the loose lay planks and finish it off with the drain cap.

Step 7. How to Cut Thin Pieces Off a Vinyl Plank

You may run into an instance where you just need to cut a sliver off the length of a board once you get to a wall. Yikes! Because there is no leverage, it’s impossible to cut just a sliver off with a utility blade and snap it off with your hands. But I had an epiphany to use one of my stained glass tools, called a grozing plier, to assist with that task.

The curved jaw gives you the leverage you need to bend and snap just a narrow piece.

See how narrow this strip is? It worked like a charm (you’ll see that in action on the video)!

Once the grozing plier does its job, score from the back to separate. Don’t you just love it when tools are multi functional?

Step 8: Ways to Install Loose Lay Vinyl Flooring With Tabs

There are actually a few ways of installing luxury vinyl planks with True North LVMax tabs. You can install them as you go, dry lay the floor first and come back and lift pieces to install the tabs (time consuming) or apply the tabs to one side on a table top first. Regardless of how you choose to add the tabs, you’ll apply three tabs along each long side (one every twelve inches) and one at each short end. Apply the tabs sticky side up.

If you you’re doing a herringbone pattern, the tab placement is slightly different as shown below.

Using a Table Top to Pre-Tab

As soon as our first room was done, we set up a table to work on. If you have chronic back pain, like I do, this method really helps!

I use a marker to help position the tabs; it takes the guesswork out of where to place them. To make one, just mark a full length cut off from a starter plank with green tape every 12″ as a guide. You can see my marker below right on top of the plank I’m applying tabs to.

Peel the liner only halfway to just above the black line. That exposes the bottom half of the adhesive. Then insert the tab under the edge of the plank, lining up in the middle of the black line. Leave the liner on until you’re ready to lay the row. Install the tabs in this manner every twelve inches.

The black strip on the tab is not only a great visual aid to help you place it. It’s actually made of silicone and also resists cleaning chemicals if anything should seep through when washing the floors after installation.

As you tab each plank, stack them up on the table.

A table top surface the work not only saves your back, but is fast and efficient. That’s because you can set it up like an assembly line, then just grab the planks to drop into place in the room where you’re working.

When you lay planks that are pre-tabbed, first remove the liners from the existing planks on the floor. The pre-tab edge should be facing outward. Since there are no sticky tabs on the ends yet to contend with, it’s easy to slide the new plank against the end and line it up 90 degrees before you roll the plank along the tabs. Once tight against the end, roll the plank tightly against the long edge as it makes contact with the adhesive. As you go, exert forward pressure on the edge and you’ll get a nice tight fit.

Since the tabs are already on outer edge with the table method, you’re ready to join the next row of planks after applying tabs to the ends. See ‘joining end to end’ (two sections down) to complete the row.

Joining Side to Side on Site

If you are installing tabs on site as you lay the planks, do an entire row at once. As before, install them every 12″, sticky side up, lining up in the centre of the black strip.

Once all the tabs are in place along the entire row, remove all the liners at once and proceed as above. However, dispose of liners in a container, like this box. Don’t make the mistake of leaving the liners lying around on the floor. Because the tab liners are clear, they’re just about invisible, so it’s easy to slip on one!

Joining End to End

The end of each plank gets a tab after every row is laid. That’s because you want to butt against an edge without adhesive so you can position the plank. That way, you[ll get a tight seam before making contact with the rest of the tabs already in place. Watch the video and you’ll see exactly what I mean!

As always, peel only half of the liner to just below the black strip and hold onto the liner. Line up the centre of the black strip underneath the plank along the middle of the plank. Then rub your hand under the tab to establish contact and  stick it to the bottom of the vinyl plank.

Flip up the neighbouring loose lay vinyl plank so there’s room to push the tab downward against the floor as you also pull away the remaining liner.

Lower the end of the vinyl plank to make contact with the adhesive and adjoining plank.

Roll all the connecting seams to ensure a good bond between the adhesive on the tab and the backing on the vinyl planks.

Step 9: Install Baseboards

This video on how to install baseboards shows you all our tips for installing pre-cut and painted baseboard after installing your vinyl floor. But also read our comprehensive 12 step guide on how to install baseboards if you’re starting from scratch (which was written pre-flood during our engineered hardwood installation).

Step 10: Load Up the Rooms with Furniture

Unlike other flooring products that require glue – either between planks or around the perimeter, you don’t have to wait before you can walk on a loose lay vinyl plank floor. As a matter of fact, you can load up your furniture immediately once the baseboards are in place!

Tips for Moving Furniture on Loose Lay Vinyl

All our stuff was waiting in another room waiting to be returned to their locations pre-flood. Here’s a few tips on moving large furniture pieces from and unfinished area onto a loose lay vinyl floor so you can finish the flooring install:

Tip #1: first run scrap pieces of flooring against the good edge of the planks that are staying. By using scraps, you protect the edge of the good planks. Then, if you damage them you can just lift and toss them – or use them somewhere they’ll be hidden.

Tip #2: Because concrete is not a slippery surface, trying to slide furniture between the concrete and vinyl flooring is difficult. So use leftover flooring as runners and butt them up to the edge of the scraps. We found the laminate flooring you see we’re using as rails below on garbage day and snatched them up! They’re just a little higher than our vinyl planks. But you could also use extra pieces of the loose lay.

There’s already felt along the bottom of our storage units. So it’s just a matter of sliding them forward, over the edge of the runners, onto a towel or blanket! The towel, with the cabinet now on it, can then be dragged into position.

For wider shelving units, just space out the runners further apart.

Tip #3. Once on the vinyl floor, a moving blanket is useful to slide heavier cabinets like this one into place.

Finish assembling your storage, then you can complete the vinyl flooring in the rest of the basement!

Our very last row of loose lay planks is right by our staircase. Our calculations work out for the best; we end up with a full plank where you see it most, coming down the stairs. That’s why it’s important to take the time to calculate the layout!

Once the tabs are installed and the flooring is complete, the entire floor is interconnected and acts as one solid unit! It’s not going anywhere! Unless of course we have another flood. Then, as we show on the video, you can just lift it, dry it and put it back down with new tabs!

Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation – Before and After

I’ve installed just about every kind of flooring. But I’m so impressed with how quickly and easily loose lay vinyl goes down with adhesive tabs!

Although it took us over a week to install our original engineered wood floor, we were able to install an entire basement of loose lay luxury vinyl in just one weekend! That sure doesn’t happen when with most flooring products!

Would I use it again and recommend loose lay vinyl planks? A resounding yes to both!

Here’s a before and after of the first room:

The flooring really warms up the space!

One Thing to Keep in Mind with Vinyl Floors

There’s one thing to note about loose lay luxury vinyl. Rubber or latex backed mats or carpet can sometimes permanently stain vinyl floors. Luckily my vintage chair below has plastic wheels. But if your chair wheels are rubber, you may want to put down a clear floor protector – or carpeting that isn’t backed with rubber – to prevent direct contact.

Below is another view of the before and after of my office.

Don’t you just love our custom VW desk? Would you believe it’s upcycled kitchen cabinets?

And this is the view from my office into the laundry room. Things are now off the dollies and permanently re-installed – yay!

Finally, this is my sewing room. The storage cabinets you saw earlier are once again brimming with my craft stash. I show you how to organize a craft room here. I have some really unique storage solutions in store for my craft room now that I have a floor again so be sure to subscribe :).

I’d show you Hubs’ man cave too. But now it’s overrun with sewing machines on every surface – even our new loose lay vinyl plank flooring! But this DIY man cave transformation post should give you an idea of how great it looked before. I’m proud of Hub’s new hobby; he taught himself how to restore vintage sewing machines and he’s so phenomenal at it now. We’ll just have to come up with a storage solution for those gorgeous vintage sewing machines too!

More Flooring Solutions

Got chipped floor tile, try this fix!

Your Questions Answered! Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation

Now, we’re going to answer some frequently asked questions about loose lay vinyl plank flooring, just to recap.

Is Loose Lay Vinyl Good?

Loose lay vinyl flooring is a very cost effective product that is DIY friendly. Since it’s the easiest flooring to install, it’s quick. And doing it yourself saves you even more money on installation costs.

Most loose lay vinyl floors are completely waterproof, dent resistant and very durable. True North Luxury Vinyl loose lay, in particular, has the thickest wear layer in the industry (30 ml) so withstands high traffic. In addition to that, every knot is mimicked right on the surface – not just a random pattern in the wear layer – so it’s a realistic as possible. True North loose lay flooring has a fibreglass core for dimensional stability so it doesn’t need adhesive or a click system. We highly recommend trying the tab system you can get with it if you don’t like the smell or messiness of using glue around the perimeter.

In the unlikely event of serious damage, removing a board in the middle of the room, if damage does occur, is easy if you use a tab system. Slide a utility knife between the edges to cut the tabs, Then use a plunger to lift the board out. Replace the tabs and then reinstall the plank.

Loose lay vinyl is warmer than stone and tile and softer than hardwood. It can even be used above underfloor heating.

How Do You Install Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring?

The easiest way is with the True North LVMax Tab system. It’s as easy as peeling a bandaid. You just place the plank on the floor, add three tabs along the length, peel off the backing, then butt the next plank beside it. When each row is complete, lift the ends and tab them too. Roll the seams and you’re done! And without even breaking a sweat! You can walk on the floor right away. Be sure to watch the video to see my ‘butt ‘n roll’ method of laying the planks.

Does Loose Lay Vinyl Need to be Glued? Is It Better to Glue or Float Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Until True North LVMax Tab came along, you couldn’t truly float loose lay vinyl plank flooring. You really didn’t have a choice but to use glue to keep it from shifting. This tab installation system eliminates perimeter glue. Some do not like perimeter glue because it can leave some flooring materials unusable if it ever has to be removed. And depending on how the board comes off the floor when removed – you might not be able to reinstall it as flat as you’d like.

Do Loose Lay Vinyl Planks Shrink

Unlike real wood or laminate, which both undergo substantial changes/issues in the presence in moisture/water, loose lay vinyl planks do not expand and contract due to contact with moisture. This makes it ideal to use in areas like basements and laundry rooms where floors can be exposed to water.

However expansion/contraction can occur due to a change in temperature, so you must avoid direct exposure to sunlight for prolonged periods. Prolonged sunlight and excessive temperatures could cause expansion, or even delimitation, and also result in discolouration. The use of drapes or blinds is recommended during peak sunlight hours.

Do I Need Underlayment for Vinyl Plank Flooring?

You don’t need an underlayment for loose lay vinyl plank flooring. It already has a waterproof backing.

Can You Install Radiant Floor Heating Under Loose Lay Vinyl Plank?

Yes, luxury vinyl tile is perfectly suitable to lay on top of radiant floor heating. Also, if you’re installing your loose lay vinyl plank with True North LV Max tab, it can withstand temperatures of -40c to +120c so in floor heating is not an issue with the tab system either!

What Happens if Water Gets Under Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Use a shop vac to remove standing water and start running dehumidifiers and fans immediately to promote drying.

With True North LV Max tab system, the tabs make it easiest to take apart and put back together. In the case of water infiltration, just lift the boards, dry them and put back down again. New tabs would need to be used on the second installation though if you had to take the floor apart. But that’s a small price to pay for easily being able to pull up a floor and reinstall in instances of a water leak.

Can Mold Grow Under Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Loose lay vinyl planks are water resistant and waterproof. However, mold and mildew thrives on moisture, so if there is standing water then the answer is yes. Mold can develop within 24 hours of water exposure. If installing vinyl plank in a basement, keep a dehumidifier running through the summer months. Ensure room temperatures are around 65° to 70°F and the relative humidity below 45%.

The biggest advantage of using tabs to install loose lay vinyl plank floors is the ability to lift it quickly, clean it and then put it back down again with new tabs once water issues are resolved.

What Are the Disadvantages of Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Rubber or latex backed mats or carpet can permanently stain vinyl floors. It is a slow process of staining that is due to the 2 chemical compositions (PVC vs Rubber) not being compatible. Strangely though, sometimes this does occur, and sometimes nothing at all happens. But it is something to be are aware of as there is the potential of this happening.

Likewise, vinyl flooring can discolour with sun exposure but can be prevented with curtains or blinds.

The only other disadvantage (vs. wood and engineered wood) is that vinyl plank can’t be refinished. However, with a wear layer as thick as True North Luxury Vinyl has (rated for HEAVY Commercial Applications), and the extremely sturdy LVMax tabs holding everything together, that floor will last a lifetime.

Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation Maintenance

Routinely clean the floor with a neutral PH cleaner.

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