Stained glass decor totally transforms the awkward niche in the corner of our winding staircase. Since Canadian winters are way too long, I found a way to enjoy my pond all year long – by making one in glass. After installing it in the corner of our winding staircase, it became in indoor oasis! Today, I’m showing you some of the details on how I did it so you can add some ‘curb appeal’ to your winding staircase too!
I love the vibrant colour of glass. Stained glass is a hobby that adds so much personality to a space, so I couldn’t wait to put my skills to work when I bought my current house!
Transformation of the Stairs
The mosaic artwork was only a small part of the transformation of our staircase. The blond wood and worn carpet were both stripped. A dark stain and sealer on the wood is already a huge improvement. Check out our staircase makeover to see how that looks!
The following picture shows the before. As you’ll see below, the new carpet runner looks amazing!
Step 1: ‘Curb Appeal’ with Stained Glass DIY
Now for the curb appeal! That little piece of real estate in the corner of a winding staircase is the perfect spot to add a stained glass mosaic ‘pond’; it will add interest and colour to an otherwise boring spot. As you can see below, the corner is still quite bland.
Stained Glass Decor Supplies
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Here are the supplies you’ll need for this project:
- Brown kraft paper
- Pencil/marker (not pictured)
- Plywood backer (if necessary); thickness will depend on the depth of your own staircase corner platform)
- Carbon paper
- Large format photocopies of your design (at least 2)
- Rubber cement (not pictured)
- Glass cutter (I use a Toyo Pistol Grip)
- Glass grinder
- Cutter oil
- Rubber coated gloves (to prevent glass cuts)
- Non sanded grout (I use the charcoal colour)
- Rubber spatula
- Tile sponge
- Stained glass pattern shears (not pictured)
- Cutting accessory tools such as breaking plier, running plier, grozer, ring star plier etc.
- Bench brush (to keep work surface free of glass shards, not pictured)
Step 2: Paper Template
If you have carpeting on the platform to begin with, when you remove it you may find that you will need to fill it in with plywood, as was the case with my situation. If you don’t need to build it up, then make sure when you add glass on top of the base that it doesn’t extend above the trim. You don’t want to do this technique if it’s going to result in sharp edges that are higher than the trim!
I use the paper template to cut 1/4″ plywood as a base for the mosaic.
Step 3: Stained Glass Decor Design
At this point, you can use carbon paper to trace your design onto the plywood backer. Or trace directly onto the surface of the wood that’s already there if you don’t need a backer board. Tape the template down securely with painters tape so it doesn’t shift. Then transfer ALL lines and letters/numbers; you can peak under the paper as you go so you don’t miss anything.
Double check that it’s complete. Then set it aside again for later so you can add the cut mosaic pieces directly onto the backer. I pre-drill holes into the plywood where I planned some circles in the design so I can screw the plywood onto the base and secure it. To hide the screws, just cover those spaces with glass gems.
Step 4: Photocopy Pattern and Cut
Take your artwork to a large format printer and have them print off at least two copies.
Use a special pair of stained glass pattern shears to cut out the pieces from one of copies. The shears will remove a small sliver of paper between each piece leaving you with enough of a gap to add grout if you wish. I used a shear that’s 20% thinner than most others that are typically used because I wanted a smaller gap and the option of not having to grout the piece.
The intact copy of the template is the new master template to arrange the glass pieces on.
When the paper pieces are cut out from the template, sort them by colour so you can cut like colours all at once. Apply rubber cement to like paper pattern pieces, then lay them on the sheets of glass selected for the each element. Rubber cement allows you to lift and re-position the paper if necessary so you can plan your cuts and economize the glass.
Step 5: Cut Your Stained Glass Decor Pieces
Use a glass cutter to score the glass and cut each piece. When you score the glass, there’s no need to apply excessive pressure. A steady firm score is all you need and you should hear a gentle ‘hiss’ as the cutter passes over the glass. I use a pistol grip cutter; it gives me more control and is much more comfortable to use than a regular straight cutter.
I also wear rubber coated gloves on occasion to prevent glass cuts. The specialize gloves shown for stained glass work are a tight fit and are still flexible so allow a good range of dexterity (unlike other gloves).
You can use running or ring star pliers to help you break out each piece of glass you score (watch the video below to learn more about these tools!).
How to Cut Glass
If you are a beginner and want to learn how to cut glass, there are many courses at community centres and night schools; I suggest you check one out. They are generally reasonably priced and a lot of fun! I took a stained glass course at a studio in Toronto called ‘ Glasstronomy Studios’ where I learned how to cut glass. I’ll always consider myself a student in the art of stained glass.
In an exclusive to Birdz of a Feather, Glasstronomy Studios has graciously provided their Tech Talk Tuesday video that provides great instruction on the basics of cutting glass. The video reviews the different styles of glass cutters and tools used in the art of stained and fused glass. It’s like participating in your own personal glass course in the comfort of your own home! If stained glass interests you, be sure to subscribe to their YouTube channel too.
Step 6: Grind the Pieces
Once the pieces are cut, use a glass grinder to take off any bits of glass outside of the cutting line on the paper. A glass grinder is a water cooled piece of equipment with a diamond wheel that can shape the edges of the glass more precisely to each piece. It best to run every piece briefly along the wheel just so they are not sharp and can be handled when it comes time to glue them to the backer.
The video at the following link shows the features of a similar glass grinder to the one that I used for this project (we don’t have an affiliation with Glastar, I just think they make a stellar grinder).
The gadget pictured below on the grinder helps to hold the smaller pieces of glass without getting your fingers in the way of the grinding wheel.
Place the finished pieces on the master template to check for sizing. Continue cutting your other pieces of glass and fitting them onto the master template. Adjust any pieces using the grinder if you find that they still need to be finessed.
Step 7: Glue to the Backer Board
Now you should be ready to glue your pieces down onto the wood. I use pre-made tile mastic right out of the tub and literally just spread it onto the bottom of each piece of glass in an even coat. Then I stick it down to the wood.
Let the whole thing dry at least 24 hours before you transfer the stained glass decor mosaic to the staircase for installation. In Step 9, further below, you can see where there are circular gaps in the design. This is where I will hide the screws; they’ll be covered with glass gems later once the mosaic is installed.
In the meantime, you can pour out a bunch of glass gems to sort through them and check to see which ones best fit the gaps. Set aside the ones that work best.
Here, I’m testing the fit of one of the glass gems.
In addition, I found some nice pieces of abalone shell to add to the middle of the lily pads; I could have left them as-is but I liked the extra sparkle they brought.
Step 8: Transfer Onto Cardbord to Transport
Transfer the mosaic to the staircase in a piece of cardboard. I find that folding the cardboard and sandwiching the glass in between is the easiest way to carry an awkwardly shaped mosaic like this and prevent it from getting damaged on the way:
You can screw the plywood to the platform right through these holes:
Once all the screws are installed, you can add in the finishing touches: the glass gems and abalone. Here’s how the mosaic looks with them in place to cover up the screw holes:
You can also replace the quarter round trim that was removed previously around the perimeter of the walls.
Step 9: Before and After Stained Glass Decor
These pictures show a comparison of the before and after. The vibrance of the glass mosaic makes me smile every time I pass by; the pictures really don’t do it justice!
It’s a welcome change to the dreary little spot it was before and will definitely tide me over until summer when I can enjoy my real pond again.
Step 10: Grout Stained Glass Decor
If you wish, you can grout the glass mosaic just like any glass tile. I use a non-sanded grout that you have to mix with water. I mix it up in small batches and then apply it with a cheap kitchen spatula from the dollar store to help me maneuver into the corners (a regular grout float would be too awkward and messy)!
Once the grout is applied you wipe it off the surface just as you would for any other tiling project. Let the grout dry 24 hours and then remove the haze with a soft cloth and buff the glass to a shine.
For now, I chose not to grout my mosaic just yet, but when I do, I won’t be grouting around the glass gems. The reason for that is so we’ll be able to remove the mosaic again if we ever move; just in case I don’t want to leave it behind.
Free Koi Pattern to Try
This simple Koi pattern is by glass Artist Laura Heathcote for Spectrum Glass in 1999. It’s available as a free download (for personal use only) but I’ve included it here for you in case you’d like to give it a try: Koi_Spectrum Pattern_Birdz of a Feather.
If you’re intimidated to try a real stained glass piece, I hope to experiment with faux stained glass and bring you an easier project soon!
Pin Stained Glass Decor
If you enjoyed seeing how this stained glass decor transformed our staircase, please pin!
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