You know how they say that necessity is the mother of invention? This upcycle is a prime example. After we renovated our kitchen, the craft room was next on the list and I needed a storage solution, stat! Luckily we saved a bank of cabinets from our reno to create a one-of-a-kind desk for the office area.
Now on to today’s tutorial!
A friend of ours originally built these cabinets for us as temporary storage until we could renovate our kitchen. But we never did get around to making fronts for the drawers (as you can see below). For this project, there was no escaping it because we had something exciting planned for the drawer fronts!
The first step was to measure and draw up a cut plan for the drawer faces. It became the guide to cut pieces of MDF (medium density fibreboard) for the drawer fronts. Along with the MDF, he also cut some long plastic strips to use as spacers (more on how he used those later).
Mark the Studs
Using a stud finder, Hubs located the studs and applied green painters tape to mark them. Because the cabinet was positioned over an electrical outlet, he cut away the backing to expose it behind a drawer. Just in case I ever want access for a charging station, it’s better to do it now before it’s permanently attached to the wal!
Wood screws connect the cabinets to each other (side to side) and then Hubs put a few screws through the back too, hitting the studs. This ensures it can’t tip once the drawers are loaded with stuff. And believe me when I say, they will be loaded!
Before putting the drawers back in place, we covered the holes that housed a broom sweep that originally tied into the vacuum system in the kitchen. I thought about re-installing it for the craft room but decided against it because it rarely got used.
Pre-Installing the Drawer Fronts
On each piece of MDF, Hubs applied double-faced tape onto one side. The tape allowed him the flexibility to remove the faces if he wanted to adjust the spacing, but he was careful to position them right the first time.
Hubs started with the bottom pieces first. He placed a level on the ground, then a piece of plywood and several spacers on top of that to bring it up to the height he wanted to start at. After setting the bottom pieces, he worked his way up to the top making sure the drawer fronts were level and plum.
He doubled the spacers on the horizontal edges so he could leave a decent gap between each one. This gap is necessary so the drawers don’t rub against each other when they’re opened and closed.
With the spacers in place, you can lean the bottom of the MDF on top, line it up and then push it onto the drawer so the tape holds it in place.
Here’s a view from the side, showing the double-faced tape before the MDF is pressed on:
Mind the Gap!
Hubs used the spacers to leave a vertical gap too.
Once a drawer front is temporarily taped to its respective drawer, you can remove the spacers and move onto the next one repeating the process.
When all the MDF is in place, open one of the drawers and then evenly measure several spots on the inside of the drawers where you’ll drill to add screws to hold the MDF in place.
On the small drawer shown here we measured for three screws.
Add clamps to hold the MDF to the drawer. Before drilling add a piece of green tape on the bit to mark the maximum depth so you don’t accidentally drill through the front of the MDF! Pre drill the holes from the back of the drawer into the MDF.
You can either vacuum as you go or when you’ve finished drilling all the holes.
The drawer shown below is one of the larger ones, so it gets six screws. Hubs removed the clamps first to get a better picture, but it’s better to keep them in place until you’re done.
This is what you’ll end up with once all the drawers faces are screwed into place and a new black kick plate is added.
Now you’re going to undo everything you just did!
Starting from the upper left and working clockwise, unscrew each piece of MDF (leave the screws in the drawers to re-use for later.) Use a pencil to consecutively number the back of the MDF as you remove each one. Hubs usually places the number in the middle and then covers it with a piece of green tape so it won’t get covered when it’s painted.
As you remove the MDF, remember that you’ve got double-faced tape on the back, so you may need to pry them to get them to lift off. Remove the double-faced tape. As you can see, some of the MDF stuck to the tape. However, if you’re careful you should be able to remove them cleanly.
Hubs primed the MDF but painted just the edges and back with a durable white paint (it’s not necessary to paint the front because it will be covered in the next step).
Now for the Fun Part!
With all the prep work done on the drawers, it’s time to get creative. I took a high res picture of our VW (taken on our wedding day before this happened!) and scaled it in illustrator to fit the total dimension of the MDF.
The VW was printed and laminated onto an adhesive backing by a company that specializes in large format printing. Each piece was then cut to size and attached to its respective MDF drawer front (paying attention to the numbers on the back). Here are the individual drawer fronts laid out on the floor, ready to get reattached.
Insert the screws through the previously drilled holes and reattach the drawer fronts to their respective drawers.
Below is a closeup of the painted edge of the MDF.
Because the pre-assembly, this part goes fast.
Instead of attaching hardware to the face of the drawers, I repurposed chrome pulls that were strategically positioned to correspond where there is chrome is on the car. They blend right into the ‘car’ and are barely noticeable.
Here’s how the hardware looks from inside the drawer. It wraps over the top of the drawer and is screwed in from the back. Nothing to mar the front!
Right beside the bank of drawers, I needed a surface area where l could photograph some of the step-by-steps for my craft posts. However, I floated it instead of having support legs.
To determine the best height, Hubs nailed together temporary brackets out of 2 x 4’s and placed the work surface on top so we could test the height with me seated. Doing a test run will save you a lot of aggravation in the end. We’d rather do this than patch and repaint holes that then have to be re-drilled!
If necessary, you can shim the under the brackets to raise the counter until you find the real height
Again, Hubs marked the studs in the wall with green tape. Then he used a level to draw a line along the back and sides. We ultimately installed the 1×2 ledger boards higher than the brackets to permanently support the cabinet.
The ledgers along the back and the right side of the wall are painted the same colour as the wall.
However, on the left side, the ledger is painted white so it blends in with the cabinet.
Again, when installing into the cabinet, make sure the screw length is less than the depth of the materials you’re screwing together so it doesn’t poke through the drawer on the other side.
For the counter top itself, we upcylced a plain door that started out life as the entry to our cold room. It came in handy during our basement renovation to stage materials. Below we’re using it to tile our laundry room backspash. If you’re planning any tiling projects, be sure to check out our ultimate guide to tiling a backsplash.
Hubs cut the door to size, then primed, painted it and set it on top of the ledgers. It completed the desk area.
When Hubs unveiled the completed project for Christmas, I think I squealed with delight! All I can say is that it’s the BEST – GIFT – EVER!!!!
The VW desk not only looks striking in my craft studio, but it provides tons of storage for my stash!
I not only love the look of the floating counter but it’s also practical because now I can tuck away a filing cabinet and even my air compressor (both of which are on wheels and easily moveable).
The desk is quite the conversation starter when we show people our newly built basement! The vintage VW that inspired this project is a car that my husband lovingly restored and only drives in the summer; how lucky am I to enjoy it year round in my now-finished craft studio?
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After I had a chance to settle in, I got busy reupholstering a new chair. To see what else I’ve been up to in my craft studio, check out our Craft Rehab category.
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