You may remember our staircase makeover from a few years ago, but we’ve revamped the tutorial so it’s now better than ever! A staircase is often one of the first things you see when you step into a house and can really set the tone for the rest of the decor. Today we’re sharing how we stripped and refinished it.
Here’s a before of the hallway as it looked when I bought the house. The 80’s called and they wanted their wallpaper and blond oak trim back! No problem; we couldn’t wait to bring it into the current decade.
The stairs were carpeted with a grey berber runner that had seen better days.
We considered removing the carpet permanently and leaving the stairs bare after re-staining them, but it would have been too slippery.
The first thing we did was to pull up the runner on the treads – along with the many years of dust, dirt and dog/people grime that came out with it! Wear a mask; your lungs will thank you for it. We were only too happy to see that carpet gone!
I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to remove every single staple and/or tack that was holding down the underpaid. It’s a painstaking job, but somebody had to do it 🙂
The reward was finally having a clean slate to work with! I passed the baton over to hubs to work his magic with the rest of the transformation.
Because the spindles were already loose, hubs removed them so they could be stripped outdoors.The one advantage of course was that, once disassembled, the spindles were MUCH easier to strip.
If your staircase is solid and stable, we wouldn’t recommend removing the spindles because it’s a big undertaking to take them apart and then put them back again – and you run the risk of splitting the wood. If our spindles and handrail was in better shape and we left them in place, I would probably have just painted them out, to save the time and effort of using a chemical stripper – as well as our lungs!
The first step in taking apart the spindles was to remove the screws from underneath the handrail.
The railing has a metal piece that runs the full length of the wood and sits just underneath where the wood is routed out; it is sandwiched in between the handrail and spindles. The metal serves as a conduit that attaches into both the handrail (from underneath) and the spindles (from above) to keep them secure. Once the handrail is removed, you can access the screws that hold the top of the spindles in place.
The bottom of each spindle is connected with a dowel joint and glued into a hole on each tread. Since our spindles were so loose at the bottom, most of them easily came out with some gentle persuasion and twisting.
As you are removing each spindle, it’s a good idea to number each one with a pencil on the top edge so you can place it back where it came from later. You can cover each number with a piece of green painters tape so it doesn’t accidentally get removed or stained over.
For the few stubborn ones, we used a bar clamp for leverage so they could be twisted and unglued.
A little brute strength with the help of a clamp every once in a while is just the ticket!
We made our way up the stairs.
These last two spindles, however, gave us a run for our money!
We gathered the spindles into a pile.
Once removed, they got stripped, stained and top-coated outside. Then they got put aside while the rest of the staircase was being stripped.
The worst part of the job was stripping each step – which obviously had to be done in place – because of the smell. Stripper fumes are hazardous – especially indoors. Take every precaution by turning off pilot lights on appliances and fire places, and keeping the vapours away from hot surfaces such as stoves, water heaters, clothes dryers, furnaces and other electrical appliances… and of course, don’t smoke (if you haven’t quit yet!) anywhere near the work area. We turned our furnace off before we started.
We wouldn’t recommend you undertake any stripping project indoors unless you can also open doors and windows to fully ventilate the house, so late Spring would be a good time of year to do this. To protect your lungs from the fumes, wear a full face mask with a charcoal insert – not just one of those skimpy paper ones!
Mask off all walls and any flooring surrounding the area so you don’t accidentally spray droplets of stripper onto those surfaces; it will eat through them!
I suffer from migraines and can’t tolerate the smell of stripping solution – even with a charcoal mask – so Hubs took on the task of stripping the stairs on his own. Since I vacated the house, unfortunately that meant that we didn’t get any pictures of the process during the actual stripping, staining and varnishing of the treads.
Follow your stripper instructions and leave it on for the recommended time before removing it with a scraper. Scrape across each step with the grain of the wood. You can use a cardboard box to corral the mess (let the stripper residue dry before disposing of the box in the garbage).
Fine steel wool (00) soaked in stripper can help remove remaining finish. Work in small areas at a time – always in the direction of the grain. If residue still remains, use sandpaper. Hubs also gave the stairs a light allover sanding with fine grit paper and cleaned away the dust.
Apply your stain – ideally with a brush. Again, read the instructions and let it soak in for the recommended time, then remove the remainder with a clean cotton cloth.
Once the stain was done, hubs brushed on a few coats of water-based varnish and let it dry between coats.
The spindles were then glued back into place; use the numbers to put them back in the same order they were removed. The metal and handrail were reverse-engineered and reattached. As the glue sets up, it’s probably a good idea not to use the handrail for a few days while it dries so you don’t accidentally shift anything out of alignment.
As you can see more clearly below, hubs only removed the varnish off the outer portion of each one. Since we were planning on putting a new runner down the middle anyway, it wasn’t necessary to spend money on additional stripper solution that wasn’t necessary. He just had to ensure that each step was stained far enough on each side that the runner would completely cover up the unstained portion in the middle!
I have to say that one big advantage of not staining the centre of each step was that the staircase was usable during the time we were working on it!
Here is the staircase with the handrail and spindles back in place.
A reminder of the before:
Once the stairs were stained, topcoated and reassembled, a carpet runner was installed. The end result brought a new air of sophistication to our hallway that it didn’t previously have as you can see in the after.
Here are before and after overhead shots:
The niche in the corner of the staircase provides an interesting area to decorate. We’ve have our stained glass pond in and out of that area a few times. For now we’re enjoying it plain and simple and like the fact that you can see the large ‘A’ from the lower level. It adds a pop of colour in the neutral space that visitors can see too.
Because we went with a deep, rich wood stain, the wall colour was changed to a light grey to keep the contrast in balance. The new paint colour brightens up the hallway, which tends to be dark because there is no window in the front of the house or a skylight (hopefully one day, we’ll install one).
After the carpet runner went in, I was finally able to put up this beautiful painting from my friend, the talented Vancouver artist and sculptor Elsa Bluethner. I think it adds just the right pop of colour to the neutral backdrop of the stairs, walls and carpet!
Along with the artwork, we put up this concave mirror that we found at an antique market and refurbished. I love how it not only compliments our staircase, but reflects it too!
It’s amazing how some elbow grease can revitalize old wood and bring a home into the present decade! If you enjoyed this post, please pin and share!
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